Figure 3-14.--End butt joint with fishplates.
Figure 3-16.--Rabbet joints.
they cannot be seen from the outside of the
3-20) to shape the end of the abutting member to fit
the face of the first member.
Heavier construction that requires locking joints
call for single dovetails and half dovetails. The
single dovetail (dovetail key) is a good joint for
Good furniture has several mortise-and-tenon
attaching a loose piece to a pattern. Dove tails
joints (fig. 3-21). This joint appears weak, but when
require accurate layout. Use a sharp knife edge to
glued it is very strong. It can be wedged, split, or
mark the layout, not a pencil. Use a T-bevel to lay
offset. You can't go wrong with properly designed
out the angles. You can use the tenon saw to saw
and fitted mortise-and-tenon joints. Use the
out most of the waste and then finish the work with
slip-tenon joint the same way as a miter or corner
half-lap joint. Secure it with dowels, screws, bolts,
or nails and then glue it.
Box Corner and Miter Joints
LAYING OUT AND CUTTING JOINTS
Many commercial packing boxes are made with
the box corner joint (fig. 3-18). It cuts easily on the
One of the basic skills you must learn in
circular saw with special dado heads.
woodworking is to join pieces of wood to form tight,
strong joints. The two joined pieces are members.
The miter joint (fig. 3-19) is used for picture
The two major steps in joining members are layout
frames, boxes, panel frames, and other frames.
and cutting. Lay out the joints on the ends, edges,
Glue the joints, and then fasten miter joints with
or faces of the members. Then cut the members to
nails, brads, and corrugated fasteners.
the required shapes for joining.
The spline miter is better than the plain miter.
Cut it with the table saw and jig. Other miters
require more work and are used only on special
When matching inside corner joints between
molding trim members, use the coping joint (fig.
Figure 3-17.--Dovetail joints.
Figure 3-15.--Dado and gain joints.